It’s no longer news that the once-disparaged Rheinhessen is producing great and exciting wines.
BATTENFELD-SPANIER
2020 (Hohen-Sülzen) Kirchenstück Riesling GG
Clear, some lime, less marked than the Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott below: good but not so well differentiated. 92/A
2020 (Mölsheim) Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott Riesling GG
Clear, pure, with a dustiness, also minerality, good penetration. Not terribly deep, but no problem — it contributes to elegance. 93(+)/A
2020 (Zell) Kreuzberg Riesling GG (auction)
This is actually a Pfalz wine — Battenfeld-Spanier holdings are mostly on the Rheinhessen side, but this one (new to me) is just over the line. The wine is intense, pure, and zesty in the nose. The mouth shows pure peach and apricot fruit with minerality, length, and lift from the limestone soil. 94/A
WINTER
2019 (Dittelsheim) Leckerberg Riesling GG
Pure, nervy, medium-weight, clear. Good acidity. Can drink now but a long future. 93/A
2019 (Dittelsheim) Geiersberg Riesling GG
Perhaps a little rounder, less acidic than the Leckerberg, lime minerality, finesse, penetration. 93/A
2019 (Dittelsheim) Kloppberg Riesling GG
Racy with lemony minerality, purity, penetration, medium-weight. 93/A