The hot 2018 and 2019 vintages were problematic for the Muscadet appellations, leading to many wines that were flabby and had tropical fruit instead of the typical crispness and sea salt austerity. Happily, 2020 appears to be an ideal for the wines.
BONNET-HUTEAU
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie Levraudière
This reliable Muscadet producer has turned out a classic in 2020: crisp, clear, lemony, and nervous with seaside aromas and flavors. Certified organic and biodynamic. Agglomerate cork closure. Lot L 0045. 12% stated alcohol. 90/A
R. BRANGER & Fils/MANOIR DE LA GRELIÈRE
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Réserve
Here is a near-perfect Muscadet — light, crisp, nervy, and lemony with excellent intensity and penetration. And it sells for just a song. 11.5% stated alcohol. 91/A
Les CAVES DE LA NANTAISE
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Les Folies Landiers
This wine is a coopertive effort of ten different vignerons. It shows some clarity along with vaguely lemony fruit, but lacks crispness and incision. Synthetic closure. 12% stated alcohol. 86/B-
Château la CHEVILLARDIÈRE/Claude Michel PICHON
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie
Crispness, freshness, and salinity in a light body characterize this wine. Just a little sweetness, presumably from a tiny bit of residual sugar, prevents it from being an even better wine. Agglomerate cork closure. 12% stated alcohol. Lot L 20060. 88/B
Domaine de la PETITE FESSARDIÈRE/Domaine de la FESSARDIÈRE
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie
This wine shows the fine acidity of the 2020 vintage for Muscadet. It is lemony in the nose and mouth, light, silky, and with some bite. It is a perfect wine for oysters and other shellfish, or as an aperitif. Drink over the next 2-3 years. Certified organic. DIAM 1 closure. 12% stated alcohol. 90/A
DROUET Frères
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie Le Grand Duc
A classic Muscadet: light, nervy, austere, and steely with good salinity. Better this well-chilled on a hot day than a mediocre rosé and 2-3 times the price. Certified organic. Nomacorc closure. 11.5% stated alcohol. 90/A
Jo LANDRON
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie Amphibolite
Although this is not Landron’s top cuvée, it is disappointing in this vintage, given what so many other less-well-known producers have done. The wine is medium-weight, firm, and has some citric salinity, but it has substituted some richness of texture in place of the classic nervosity and electricity. Certified organic and biodynamic. DIAM 1 closure. 11.2% stated alcohol. 87/B