The annual Grosses Gewächs preview in Wiesbaden at the end of August showed magnificent Rieslings throughout Germany.
Some producers have been allowing their wines to age before previewing, so I will also be reviewing some 2019s that were shown. As a generalization, 2019 is the more concentrated, structured vintage, and probably will be the longer-lasting. But the 2020s are so seductive for their finesse and harmonious acidity, that I have a slight preference overall for them. But you almost can’t go wrong buying the wines blind.
The Staatliche Hofkeller wines and the Bürgerspital Stein-Berg wine are in the Bochsbeutel bottle that is typical of the region, the other wines, reflecting awareness of shipping and storage issues, are in Burgundy-shaped bottles.
BÜRGERSPITAL ZUM HEILIGEN GEIST
2020 (Randersacker) Pfülben Riesling GG
Round, dense, nectarine skin fruit, long, penetrating. 94(+)/A
2020 (Würzberg) Stein-Berg Riesling GG
Perfumed nose. Medium-weight, silky texture, apricot fruit, penetration, depth, calm. 93+/A
SCHMITT’S KINDER
2020 (Randersacker) Pfülben Riesling GG
Nice energy, clarity, medium-weight, some finesse, incipient apricot fruit. 93(+)/A
STAATLICHE HOFKELLER WÜRZBURG
2020 (Randersacker) Pfülben Riesling GG
Fabulous perfumed nose — all sorts of spring blossoms. Medium-weight, round, apricots, finesse, length. 94/A
2020 (Würzberg) Stein-Berg Riesling GG
Apricot nose. Rainwater clarity, medium-weight, calm, pure, apricot fruit with elegance. 93+/A
Paul WELTNER
2020 (Rödelsee) Hoheleite Riesling GG
Floral but not fruit-blossomy nose. Medium-light body, long, deep, pure, a touch of salinity. 93(+)/A