2020 (and a 2019) Whites from the Western Loire: Bedouet, Branger, Château de Chantres, Chevalier, Germain, Huët, Janvier, Petiteau

I continue to be impressed by the 2020 vintage for Muscadet and as an extra bonus, the wines remain greatly underpriced. Chenin Blanc also achieved outstanding expression in the vintage.



BEDOUET


2020 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine  sur lie   Clos des Grands Primos

Another outstanding value Muscadet from the 2020 vintage, this wine is light in weight with a fine texture and it shows good precision and salinity to its sea salt aromas and flavors. For drinking over the next few years. Certified organic. Agglomerate cork closure. 12% stated alcohol. Lot L GP 20.  89/A-




Claude BRANGER


2020 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine  sur lie   Le Fils des Gras Moutons

Not all 2020 Muscadet succeeds. This wine has sea salt aromas and is medium-light in weight with a silky texture, but it finishes slightly sweet, making it the antithesis of what one seeks in Muscadet. Cork closure. 12% stated alcohol. 85/D




Château de CHANTRES


2020 Saumur    Les Genêts

From relatively young vines, this wine is mineral, pure, juicy, and saline with citric flavors and a touch of creaminess: a good example of Saumur. Certified organic (will be certified biodynamic in 2021). 90/A-




Eric CHEVALIER


2020 Muscadet  Côtes de Grand Lieu sur Lie   Clos de la Butte

An attractive briny nose is followed in the medium-weight mouth with a silk texture, some salinity, and rather unfocused white fruit flavors. Cork closure.11.5% stated alcohol. 86/C



Thierry GERMAIN


2019 Saumur   L’Insolite

This wine comes from 90 year-old vines planted on a complex mixture of clay, silex, red limestone, and sandstone soils. It is a brilliant expression of bone dry Chenin Blanc. The wine is fermented and then aged on fine lees in 1200-liter foudres. The wine is chalky, austere, and energetic with great clarity and purity and excellent acid support. The wine drinks very well now, but with its balance, I see no reason why it shouldn’t be able to age a decade, maybe two. Perfect for shellfish and creamy cheeses, among other things. Cork closure. Lot L 19. 13% stated alcohol.  91/A



HUËT


Certified organic and biodynamic.


2020 Vouvray  Le Haut-Lieu   demi-sec

Medium-light on the palate with light sweetness, this wine needs several days after opening to begin to show its true colors. There’s some beeswax and honey here, and on the whole, this is not bad, but clearly less impressive than its 2019 counterpart. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L20HLD. 89/B


2020 Vouvray   Le Mont  demi-sec

Medium-light on the palate with honey and beeswax and barely perceptible sweetness, this wine is tighter and more concentrated than the Haut-Lieu, but ideally needs several years in the cellar to deepen.  Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L20MTD. 91/A-


2020 Vouvray   Clos du Bourg  demi-sec

Similar to the two preceding wines in aroma and flavor profile, but this wine has more depth, energy, intensity, and completeness. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L20CBD. 92/A




Pascal JANVIER


2019 Vin de France   Chenin Blanc

Firm with some silkiness to its texture, pineapple fruit, and a slight salinity, this is a simple but pleasing wine for drinking as an aperitif or with simple meals. Agglomerate cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L14. 86/B




Romain PETITEAU


2020 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine  sur Lie   Bohale

This is a light and elegant Muscadet with lemony touches in the nose and mouth, equally good as an aperitif or with seafood. Certified in conversion to organic culture. Agglomerate cork closure. 12% stated alcohol. Lot L 01.  89/A-