2019 Ahr Grosses Gewächs Spät- and Frühburgunder Part I (Burggarten, Herrenberg, Kirchtürmchen, Landskrone, Mönchberg, Schieferlay, Sonnenberg from Burggarten, Deutzerhof, Meyer-Näkel, Stodden)

German Spätburgunder producers largely have moved away from the heavy use of oak. I’m sorry to say that there seems to have been some backsliding with the Ahr wines in 2019.



Frühburgunder is a variant of Pinot Noir that matures earlier. The wines differ little, if any, from classic Pinot Noir.


BURGGARTEN


2019 (Neunahr) Sonnenberg Frühburgunder GG 

Earthy, oak-like nose. Mouth is silky, red currants, refreshing, medium-weight.  90/B+




DEUTZERHOF


2019 (Mayschoss) Mönchberg Frühburgunder GG 

Spicy nose, possibly a bit of brett. Smooth, medium-light, less structure than the two other Frühburgunder, but not deficient. 87?/B-




Jean STODDEN


2019 (Rech) Herrenberg Frühburgunder GG

Earthy nose, less oak than the Sonnenberg. Mouth is medium-weight, more tannin than Sonnenberg, darker fruit. Can take a few years’ cellaring. 87+/B-





Spätburgunder, of course, is the German name for classic Pinot Noir.



BURGGARTEN


2019 (Heimersheim) Burggarten Spätburgunder GG 

Toasty nose. Medium-light in weight, red and dark fruits, some tannins. Not really harmonious. 86/C


2019 (Neuenahr) Schieferlay Spätburgunder GG 

Fairly heavy oak overlay in nose and mouth. Medium-weight, somewhat light on tongue, spicy, not much fruit, expression. 85/D




DEUTZERHOF


2019 (Neuenahr) Kirchtürmchen Spätburgunder GG 

Some charcoal in nose and mouth, medium-weight, a touch gritty, not much fruit expression. 86/C


2019 (Heimersheim) Landskrone Spätburgunder GG 

Charcoal nose. Medium-weight, spicy red fruits, some tannins, some oak. Needs several years. 86/C




MEYER-NÄKEL


2019 (Neuenahr) Sonnenberg Spätburgunder GG

Meaty nose — brett? — but not unpleasant. Dark fruits, smooth texture, light, fresh, some tannins for aging. 88?/B