Whites will spend 3 months in stainless steel before bottling. None was yet bottled when I tasted them last month.
In addition to less oak than in the past, there was less bâtonnage (stirring of the lees) than before, a maximum 2 times per week, stopping in December.
There was no chaptalization in 2017, and alcohols are 12-12.5º.
As with the reds, this is a very strong line-up of wines.
2017 Bourgogne. Chardonnay. Terres de Famille
This is very good white Burgundy, with intensity, acidity, minerality, length, precision. (88-90)
2017 Côte de Beaune Les Pierres Blanches
Excellent minerality and acidity, good liveliness and precision, freshness. Nice length. About 10,000 bottles produced. (89-91)
2017 Savigny-les-Beaune
Great typicity of white Savigny — mineral, good structure. Also has depth, length. From the Vermots and Gollardes lieux-dits west of the town. 90/A
2017 Vougeot Clos du Prieuré.
Much less bâtonnage than in preceding years. Very good minerality, freshness, good length. A charming wine. 91/A
2017 Puligny-Montrachet Good minerality, more structured, less lush than many, perhaps recalling a Chassagne. Excellent persistence in mouth. From the Noyer Bret and Rue aux Vaches lieux-dits. 90/A
2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain
Lively acidity, lime, like the village, not the lushness one expects of Puligny. Good length. 90(+)/B+
2017 Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot.
Harvested at three different stages. A little Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc in this wine. Round with depth, presence, substance. length. Very impressive 93(+)/A
2017 Charlemagne Round, but with finesse, long, good structure and length, completeness. Lime minerality. One parcel is in Le Charlemagne, the other in En Charlemagne. 94/A
2017 Bâtard-Montrachet
Three small parcels, all harvested at same time. Finesse, lightness on palate, but breadth and intensity are here, too. Very long in mouth. 94+/A
2017 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet.
(The vines for this wine, the Puligny, Champ Gain, Chevalier-Montrachet, and part of Bâtard came from Vincent Girardin). Minerality, depth, penetration, calm. More concentration than for Bâtard. Great persistence in mouth. 95/A
2017 Chevalier-Montrachet
Some Chevalier minerality and lightness. Not the etheral quality that Chevalier can have, but still a very pretty wine. 94(+)/A