Harvesting at this biodynamic estate began on 28 August with Chardonnay. Once finished on Côte de Beaune with Puligny-Folatières, the harvesting then moved to the reds on the Côte de Beaune, and then to the Côte de Nuits.
The estate used less new oak (both for red and for white) in 2017 than in previous years, a trend I heard in other cellars, too.
Acidities are correct, but the malic acidity is low, as is typical for the vintage.
We start with the reds:
2017 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Terres de Famille
The grapes come from the bottom of Vougeot, the Hautes Côtes de Nuits and Beaune, and young vines from Evocelles in Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos de Thorey in Nuits Saint-Georges, and Volnay. The wine is light with finesse and pretty red currant fruit, but the concentration is somewhat lacking. 86/B
2017 Côte de Beaune Les Pierres Blanches
Medium light, good firmness, lovely, precise red fruits, especially strawberry and raspberry. 10% new wood; in the past, it would have been 30-35%. (88-90)
2017 Pommard Les Petits Noizons.
Dark berry fruit, finesse, but it is Pommard; the structure and tannins would do not permit confusion with Volnay. 45% whole clusters. (89-91)
2017 Vougeot Clos du Prieuré.
Precise, structured, nice minerality. Finesse but it has backbone, too. Light on palate. 16% whole clusters. (88-91)
2017 Chambolle-Musigny
From 7 parcels, 2 of which — Gruenchers and Baudes — are 1er Cru. More weight here, dark fruit, somewhat chewy texture, long. 25% whole clusters. Needs time to develop further. (88-91)
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin
Five different parcels. Medium-weight, somewhat sappy texture, red fruits. A touch of wildness. Good, typical Gevrey. (89-91)
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice
Good density, wild red fruits, smooth texture. Not as energetic as some years, though, as is often the case in 2017. (88-91)
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
Good finesse, smooth, slightly wild red fruits with some dark tones. Good length. Here, too, not quite as energetic as in some years. Different ages for vines, about 50 years for average. An application has been submitted to INAO to make Evocelles a premier cru; the story is that when Gevrey-Chambertin premiers crus were first being designated, Evocelles was left out because it is in the commune of Brochon and not in Gevrey-Chambertin. It has long been recognized as a vineyard of premier cru quality, but some owners in Evocelles would prefer to leave it as a top lieu-dit village wine rather than a middling premier cru. (90-92)
2017 Vosne-Romanée Aux Champs Perdrix
Very pretty; light, smooth, long, and precise. This parcel was bought in 2015; beginning with the 2018 vintage, the vines will be certified biodynamic. 100% whole cluster, vines more than 70 years old; Champs Perdrix lies uphill from La Tâche and La Grande Rue and adjacent to Aux Reignots.Good minerality. All the wine will be bottled in magnum. (91-93)
2017 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Marconnets
Round, smooth, good depth, red fruits with some dark. Long. Finesse. (91-93)
2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de Thorey
Light, smooth, pure, dark fruits. Lots of pleasure here for near and medium-term drinking. This is only very old vines; the younger vines from recent replanting are in the Bourgogne Terres de Famille. 50% whole clusters. (92-94)
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru En Belair
From a vineyard just above Chambertin-Clos-de-Bèze. More tightness here — you can feel that this is a cold climate. Dark berry fruit, good energy, good concentration for the vintage. A small part was planted in 2010, the rest is about 60 years-old. (92-94)
2017 Corton-Clos-du-Roi.
Finesse of Clos du Roi with very good concentration. Dark fruits — plums; good depth and precision. (93-96)
2017 Clos-Vougeot
Good minerality to dark fruits, good penetration, finesse for Clos-Vougeot. From two parcels, one at the bottom of the Clos, one at the top. 50% whole clusters. (92-95)
2017 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyères
Dark, somewhat earthy Mazoyères fruit, but with the finesse of the vintage, plus the concentration of old vines. No rusticity here, just as I observed with other 2017 wines from Mazoyères. These are the oldest vines in estate — probably more than 100 years, planted just before World War I in selection massale. 80% whole clusters. (92-95)
2017 Bonnes-Mares
Great harmony and completeness, plus length — great length — and concentration. 100% whole clusters. (95-97)
2017 Musigny
Dark fruits (blackberries), excellent concentration, depth, purity, good structure, but also finesse. Long. 100% whole clusters. (95-98)