Robert GROFFIER Père & Fils (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage here.)

Nicolas Groffier said that harvesting began on 29 August. The first three wines below are 13.3º natural alcohol, the rest are about 13.0º natural alcohol. Yields were 38-39 hl/ha.

Malolactic fermentations were late — Nicolas used CO₂ to delay them.

Nicolas started at Groffier in 2004; 2006-7 were first vintages he did on his own. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine HUDELOT-NOËLLAT (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.) 

Regular readers know that I’ve long been very positive on the wines here, but the 2018s rise above previous levels. This is one of the most impressive collections of the vintage.

Charles van Canneyt said that harvesting began on 5 September. Alcohols ranged from 13.5º to 14.2/3º. Charles did not want too much extraction and so did pumping over rather than punching down of the caps. All grapes were destemmed. Malolactic fermentations finished in July. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine François LAMARCHE (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.)

Harvesting began on 7 September. Quantities were "correct" and malolactic fermentations were normal — beginning in December and proceeding slowly. Thirty percent whole clusters in each wine. The highest alcohol is 13.6%.

Lamarche went for elegance an restraint in this vintage, and it paid off, especially at the top end. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Réyane et Pascal BOULEY/Pierrick BOULEY (Volnay) -- 2018 Tasted from Tank and Barrel

(Please read my overview of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.)

Pierrick Bouley said the harvested the Champans on 26 August and the Clos des Chênes the following day, but really began the harvest on 30 August. Overall yield for the estate was 42 hl/ha — reasonable for the vintage and less than the estate harvested in 2017.

All grapes were destemmed. Vatting lasted 18-25 days. Malo-lactic fermentations were rapid, with some even before the alcoholic fermentations had finished (I detected no problems with brett or volatile acidity, which can sometimes occur in such circimstances). Vinification was without SO₂ until racking, which took place in September 2019. 

Another excellent vintage from this Volnay estate that still remains a bit under the radar. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine LAFARGE-VIAL (Beaujolais) -- 2018 Tasted from Tank Samples

This is the Beaujolais estate of Frédéric and Chantal (née Vial) Lafarge of Domaine Michel Lafarge in Volnay. Like the Volnay estate, it is run organically and biodynamically.

The wines were tasted just prior to bottling. The alcohols are in the range of 12.5-13.0º. About 25-28% whole clusters were used in the wines; what destemming took place was done by hand. I am not a fan of much of what I have tasted from 2018 in the Beaujolais, but these wines are a pleasant exception, showing very well with good finesse and freshness. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Michel LAFARGE (Volnay) -- 2018 Tasted from Tank Sample and Barrel

(Please see my overall review of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.)

My first morning of visiting Burgundy cellars as a journalist (not my first day of visiting in Burgundy cellars, though) was in 1988 and included a visit to Michel Lafarge. He had a reputation already in the US, although it was somewhat underground. I was astounded by what I tasted from the 1987 and 1986 vintages, neither one renowned in Burgundy. Since then, the estate has justifiably been recognized as one of the very great Burgundy domaines.

Michel died this past January at the age of 91, the result of complications from a fall a few weeks before. I last saw him in November 2018 at a dinner celebrating his 90th birthday and even then, he was bright and alert, as I understand he was until right before his fall. I have passed many unforgettable moments with Michel and son Frédéric in the cellar and also about 6-7 years ago when Michel took me and two others on a walking tour of the vineyards of Volnay. He was a great man (longtime mayor of Volnay) as well as a great wine producer.

Frédéric Lafarge was very enthusiastic about the 2018 vintage when I arrived for my scheduled tasting, but I discounted that somewhat because I had already had visits where the vignerons were enthusiastic, but the wines did perform as promised. At Lafarge, though, 2018 genuinely is a great vintage, as my notes below show. Frédéric said that Michel had compared 2018 to 1990 for potential for aging and 1959 for purity of fruit. I have had on one occasion and enjoyed the 1959 Clos des Chênes, but I am more familiar with the 1990 version, a great wine by any standard (from  a vintage about which I have my reservations in general), and indeed one that exceeds most grands crus from the same year.

Frédéric said that harvest began on 1 September with the Caillerets, then there was a pause until 4 September when the harvesting of the others began. He described quantities as “normal”, and all grapes were destemmed, as is the habit here. The Clos du Château des Ducs, Caillerets, and Pézerolles were all destemmed by hand. Malolactic fermentations began in December and finished in January.

As usual, we begin with the whites, where alcoholic fermentations were slow: (Continue reading here.)

Domaine CAMUS-BRUCHON (Savigny-les-Beaune) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel Samples and Some 2017s and a 2016 Tasted from Bottle

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.)

Guillaume Camus said he began harvesting on 30 August, and he finished on 5 September. He described quantities as "correct", but not more, and in fact, less than for 2017. 

Since 2010, he has been using 30% whole clusters in all cuvées. Wines from the plain had high degrees, 1er crus less alcohol, overall 13-13.5%. Malo-lactic fermentations were variable, some early, others not, overall most finished in June.

This collection is an excellent success for the vintage with wines substantially better than many others that will sell for many multiples of these wines’ prices. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine TRAPET Père & Fils (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel and Bottle

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage here.) 

Jean-Louis Trapet said that harvesting began on Thursday, 6 September. There was heavy use of whole clusters in this vintage, ranging from about 40-50% all the way up to 100%. Malolactic fermentations took place over the winter.

Most of these wines bear a strong signature of the vintage, lacking in many cases the tension and nervosity that appear in most vintages, yet they are successful nonetheless. (Continue reading here.)

Maison MARCHAND-TAWSE -- 2018 Reds Tasted from Barrel

Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage here and my notes on the 2018 Domaine Tawse wines here. 

As with the Domaine Tawse wines, there are some very ripe wines here that will not please lovers of classic Burgundy style. (Continue reading here.)

Villa WOLF (Pfalz) -- 2018 and a 2017 Spätburgunder

Villa Wolf is a négociant operation of Ernest Loosen of Dr. Loosen in the Mosel. The wines, from the Pfalz region, in my experience are keenly priced. Keep that in mind when you seem some of the letter grades below — the wines are being compared with other wines in their class that are considerably more expensive. (Continue reading here.)

Weingut WITTMANN and 100 HILLS (Rheinhessen): 2018 and a 2017 Spätburgunder

Philipp Wittmann not only is one of the greatest German white wine producers, in my experience he is one of my favorites worldwide. Demand is high, but the wines, especially the estate wines, are worth seeking out. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine TAWSE (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.)

Harvesting for estate red wines began on 3 September in Beaune (some of the whites, which I did not have time to taste, were picked the preceding weekend). Harvest lasted to 13 September for domaine wines, selected negociant wines picked after that.

Malo-lactic fermentations were variable, none started before the alcoholic fermentations had finished. 

Malo-lactic fermentations were variable, none started before the alcoholic fermentations had finished. There are some very ripe wines here that will not please lovers of classic Burgundies, but the wines from the former Domaine Maume have turned out very well.(Continue reading here.)